There is a specific kind of music that only a rider understands: the first successful "vroom" of an engine after a long winter silence. But before you get to that symphony, you have to do the work. After raising triplet boys and navigating the high-stress world of full-time work and college, I’ve learned that skipping the "small stuff" is exactly how you end up stranded on the side of a highway. My husband, with his 40-plus years of riding experience, always says that a motorcycle or a Can-Am doesn't just "go"—it performs. If you want that performance to be safe, especially on those beautiful but unforgiving twisty roads in Southeast Ohio, you need to treat your pre-season check as a non-negotiable ritual. Whether you’re on a traditional two-wheeler or a Can-Am Spyder RT like mine, this safety 360 is about ensuring your machine is as ready for the season as you are.

The Foundation: Tires and Wheels

Your tires are the only thing connecting you to the pavement, and on a three-wheeler, that connection is your lifeline. Don't assume that because they looked "fine" in November, they are ready for April.

Pressure and Flat Spots

The most common issue after storage is pressure loss. Cold air and time lead to deflation. Use a high-quality digital gauge to check your PSI against the manufacturer's spec (found in your owner's manual or on the swingarm/fender sticker). If you didn't use a lift or move your bike during the winter, check for flat spots. On a Can-Am Ryker or Spyder, you have three contact patches to inspect. Rotate the wheels and feel for any irregularities. If the bike feels like it's "thumping" during your first slow-speed roll, those flat spots might need attention.

The "Age" Factor and Tread Depth

Rubber degrades even when it isn't moving. Check the sidewall for the four-digit date code (the first two digits are the week, the last two are the year). If your tires are over five years old, they are likely hardening, which means less grip when you need it most. Use the "penny test" or look for the built-in tread wear indicators. On the Spyder, uneven wear across the two front tires can be a subtle hint that your alignment is off—something to address before you hit the high-speed curves of the Smoky Mountains.

The Lifeblood: Fluids and Filters

Your engine has been sitting with cold, stagnant fluids for months. It’s time to make sure everything is clean and at the right level. If you followed my advice and did a "Post-Ride Flush" in the fall, you’re ahead of the game, but a fresh check is still mandatory.

Oil and Coolant Levels

Check your oil level with the bike upright. Look for any signs of milky discoloration, which indicates moisture or coolant contamination. Speaking of coolant, check your reservoir. On the Rotax engines found in Can-Ams, the cooling system works hard. Ensure the levels are topped off and that there’s no debris—or rodent nests—blocking the radiator fins. Those little critters love a warm garage as much as we do, and a mouse nest in your air intake is a quick way to choke your engine.

Brake Fluid and Pads

Brake fluid is hygroscopic, meaning it absorbs moisture over time. If your fluid looks dark, like old tea, it’s time for a flush. Check your pads for thickness. On a Can-Am, which is heavier than a standard bike, your brakes work overtime. If you’re down to the last 3mm of pad, swap them out now. It’s much easier to do in your garage than at a shop in the middle of a trip to the Motorcycle Inn in Kodak, TN.

The Spark: Battery and Electrics

A "clicking" starter is the most frustrating sound in motorcycling. If you didn't have your bike on a NOCO Genius2 or similar maintainer all winter, your battery might be struggling.

Load Testing and Terminals

Check your battery terminals for that fuzzy white corrosion. Clean them with a baking soda and water mix and ensure the connections are tight. If the bike struggles to crank, take the battery to a local shop for a load test. A battery that shows 12.6 volts can still fail under the load of a starter motor.

The "Light Show" Inspection

Turn on the ignition and check every single bulb. Headlights (high and low beam), turn signals, and especially your brake lights. If you’ve installed LED lighting upgrades, make sure all the strips and modules are still securely mounted and functioning. This is a great time to test your horn, too—you want to make sure you can wake up distracted drivers before they move into your lane.

The Chassis and Drive System

Finally, look at the "bones" of the machine. Vibration is a constant in riding, and things can wiggle loose.

Fasteners and Leaks

Grab a wrench and do a "nut and bolt" check on visible fasteners, especially around the exhaust and footpegs. Look under the machine for any fresh spots of oil or coolant. If you see a "shadow" of fluid on your garage floor, trace it back to the source now.

Belt or Chain Tension

If you’re on a traditional bike, clean and lube your chain. If you’re in the "No-Chain Gang" with a Spyder or Ryker, inspect your drive belt. Look for cracks, "teeth" that are missing, or debris embedded in the rubber. Belt tension is vital for smooth power delivery and avoiding that high-pitched whine that can ruin a long ride.

Taking the time to perform this safety 360 isn't just about the machine; it’s about your peace of mind. When you finally pull out of the driveway for that first ride, you want to be "present," focused on the wind and the road, not wondering if your rear brake is going to hold. You’ve put in the work—now it’s time to enjoy the reward.