That final perfect ride of the season—it’s always bittersweet. You pull your motorcycle or your Can-Am Spyder into the garage, wipe down the chrome, and pat the seat. The riding is done for a few months. For many riders, the next thought is, “I’ll change the oil in the spring when I get it out.” Stop right there. This common mistake is one of the most overlooked causes of internal engine damage during storage. It's the equivalent of sending your kid to bed without brushing their teeth—it seems fine now, but you’ll absolutely pay for it later. As someone who found my stress relief on two wheels before embracing the three-wheel life on my Spyder RT, I can tell you that a little bit of maintenance smarts now saves a huge headache later. This isn't a debate; it’s a technical necessity. Here is why the single most important maintenance step you can take before your bike goes into hibernation is the post-ride oil flush.

The Science of Stagnation: Why Old Oil is Corrosive

To understand why a pre-storage oil change is essential, you have to understand what happens to oil when your engine runs. It's not just a lubricant; it's an active chemical component exposed to an incredibly hostile environment.

The Acid Problem

When fuel combusts in your engine, it creates several byproducts. Two of the worst offenders are moisture and acids. These aren't battery acids, but they are corrosive compounds formed when sulfur, phosphorus, and other elements in the oil react with combustion gases and water vapor. Normally, when you ride the bike regularly, the engine gets hot enough (above the boiling point of water) to burn off that moisture, and the oil's detergent additives neutralize the acids. When you park the bike for the winter, that process stops, and the acids and moisture are left to sit. They settle on bearings, cylinder walls, and other critical metal components, acting like a slow, invisible corrosive etch.

TBN: The Engine's Sunscreen

Motorcycle oils contain a key defense mechanism measured by the Total Base Number (TBN). TBN is the measure of the oil’s ability to neutralize these corrosive acids. As the oil is used, its TBN is consumed. By the time you’re ready to put your bike away, the oil's TBN is heavily depleted, leaving your engine's internal components vulnerable. Storing the bike with old, contaminated oil is essentially leaving the rust and acid to work uninterrupted for months. By draining the old, acidic oil and replacing it with fresh, new oil that has a full, robust TBN, you are effectively coating your engine in a protective, anti-corrosive film. This protective layer ensures your engine components stay pristine all winter long.

The Springtime Headache: What Happens If You Wait?

Some riders argue that oil doesn't go bad just by sitting there, and technically, they're half right. New oil is fine sitting in a garage. But used oil is a different story. Waiting until spring to change the oil guarantees three major headaches:

1. Corrosion Flakes: The moisture and acid in the old oil can cause minor pitting or rust on internal steel parts. When you finally fire up the engine in the spring, those tiny flakes of rust and corrosion break loose and circulate through your system, turning your oil into a gentle grinding paste that prematurely wears down bearings and seals.

2. Sludge Formation: The contaminants in the old oil can mix with moisture and heat variations to create sludge and varnish, particularly in the oil channels and on the filter. This can reduce oil flow, causing premature wear the instant you start riding again.

3. The Can-Am Connection: For Can-Am Spyder and Ryker owners, this is doubly important. Since the same oil lubricates both the engine and the transmission, you are protecting a complex, combined system. Leaving old, contaminated oil in the shared system risks the corrosive elements affecting seals and gears as well as the engine components.

Your Post-Ride Flush Checklist

Making the oil change part of your end-of-season ritual is the best form of preventative maintenance. It’s a technical necessity that ensures you spend more time riding and less time wrenching when the warm weather returns.

1. Warm Up the Engine

Take a short ride—at least 15 minutes—to get the engine up to full operating temperature. This warms the oil, allowing it to flow out more completely, taking suspended contaminants with it.

2. Drain and Inspect the Old Oil

Drain the old oil and replace the oil filter. If you're on a two-wheeler, make sure you get the filter, too. If you ride a Can-Am, you know the drill: make sure you drain both plugs, as you are draining both the engine and the transmission portions of the system. This is also your chance to inspect the oil for any metal flakes—a good early warning sign of wear.

A full Oil Change Kit designed for your specific motorcycle or Can-Am model is highly recommended. These kits typically include the correct amount of fully synthetic oil formulated with robust rust inhibitors, a new oil filter, and all the necessary sealing washers and O-rings, ensuring you have everything you need for a complete job.

3. Fresh Oil, Filter, and Sealing Washers

Install the new oil filter, making sure to replace the necessary rubber seals and washers (this is vital for Spyder/Ryker drain plugs and oil filter caps). Fill the engine with the manufacturer-recommended amount of fresh, clean oil. This is a crucial step in ensuring your machine is protected by oil with a high TBN, ready to fight off corrosion all winter long.

4. Top Off and Stabilize the Fuel

The fuel system is the other half of the corrosion prevention equation. After the oil change, fill your gas tank completely to minimize air space, which prevents condensation. Add a high-quality fuel stabilizer and run the engine for at least five minutes to ensure the treated fuel reaches and protects all the fuel injectors, lines, and the fuel pump.

This preventative routine—changing the oil before storage—is a practice every serious rider embraces. It's the ultimate show of respect for your machine and the best guarantee that when you pull the cover off next spring, your engine will fire up instantly, ready to give you that feeling of absolute presence on the open road once again.

Manufacturer Disclaimer

While the steps outlined in this guide are widely accepted and best practices for vehicle storage, they are for general informational purposes only. It is essential that you consult the specific owner's manual for your motorcycle or Can-Am Spyder/Ryker model. Your manual contains the definitive, model-specific fluid specifications, torque values, and maintenance requirements. When in doubt, or if you have any questions regarding your machine's unique needs, always contact a certified dealer or a qualified mechanic for professional advice.